My wife and I love Champagne. We used to drink it frequently, often more than once a week. Champagne transforms a Tuesday night into a special celebration. It is complex, refreshing, food friendly, stylish, sexy, and perhaps most importantly, FUN! We would often have a glass of Champagne before dinner instead of a cocktail, and it was a frequent part of our Sunday brunches. But that was a few years ago… before our twins arrived, before we took an equity line on our house for a remodel, and before the price of a decent, entry level bottle skyrocketed as it has in the past year. 3 years ago, it was not hard to find a bottle of Montaudon, Piper Heidseck, or other quality nonvintage Brut Champagne for $25 or less – sometimes it would even be on sale for $19.99! However, times have changed. Champagne has really demonstrated the reality of how supply and demand for a product control its pricing. Virtually all the plantable land in Champagne is already planted with grapes, so the supply of Champagne produced in a given year is basically unchanging. You might have heard that the authorities recently expanded the boundaries of the region, which will certainly increase production, but we will not see the increase for a few years. Meanwhile, newly booming economies Asia and the Middle East are contributing to a surging demand for fine wine in general – demand that was not there a few years ago. And you can see where I’m going with this – combine a fixed supply with an increase in demand, and there is virtually no limit to where prices can go. Today, if you can find a quality non vintage true Champagne for less than $40, grab it, because that is an increasingly rare item.
So, while I still will splurge on true Champagne for special occasions, it is no longer my go-to sparkler any time I’m feeling like some bubbles. However, I’m happy to report that there are a lot of great choices out there, retailing below $20 per bottle. Here are a few suggestions to get you started:
Cava: Cava is Spain’s answer to Champagne. Cava’s are fermented in bottle in the exact manner of Champagne (“Methode Champenoise”), but unlike Champagne, which is usually made from a combination of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, Cava can be made from any of those three, as well as Mourvedre, Tempranillo, Grenache, and some grapes you might not ever have heard of, such as Macabeo, Xarello, and Parellada. Expect to pay $12-$20/ bottle for good Cava. I sell Marquis de Gelida, which Robert Parker called “Perhaps the best sparkling wine value in the marketplace”.
Prosecco: Prosecco is the most common type of sparkling wine from Italy (along with Moscato d’Asti). Unlike Cava and Champagne, Prosecco is not bottle- fermented, and in my opinion, it is not quite as serious a wine as Cava or Champagne. However, it is delicious, fruity, occasionally slightly sweet, and it makes a great afternoon pick-me-up or aperitif wine. It is still possible to get high quality Prosecco for less than $15 per bottle. I represent La Marca Prosecco, which was in the Wine Spectator’s Top 100 wines of 2007.
Non Champagne, French Bubbles: There are sparkling wines made all around France, not just from Champagne. The quality of these wines is as variable as it is for American sparklers. You really have to experiment to find out which ones you like, but plan to spend $10 - $20 per bottle for something that’s actually enjoyable, not just a base for a mimosa. I sell the surprisingly delicious Francois Montand Blanc de Blancs, which retails around $12. Also look for Cremant De Loire, a method Champenoise sparkler from the Loire Valley. Marcel Martin is a new one in a great looking package – fresh, dry, clean and fruity, it is great stuff.
Domestic sparklers: Some are great, many are not worth the price. A few of my favorites: Schramsberg (particularly the blanc de noirs, although it is sort of expensive), Roederer Anderson Valley, and for good value, the bubblies from Gruet, in believe it or not, New Mexico. Their Extra Dry is not too sweet and is quite good.
If you have some favorite non-Champagne sparklers, please share your secrets! Cheers and happy holidays!
January 4th, 2009 at 7:26 pm
Hey Carter!
Will I be disqualified if I admit to enjoying Martini & Rossi’s Asti Spumante?
That has become the cheapy bubbly that our family turns to for special celebrations.
Also, and I may really horrify you here, I stumbled across a very easy remedy for when you come across a champagne that just does not float your boat. My husband and I recently bought our first home, and we felt very blessed when we found that the people who sold us the house left a bottle of champagne in the fridge. As wonderful as that idea was, the champagne itself was just too dry for our tastes. In the heat of the moment (yes, I admit it!!), I mixed a little apple juice into my glass and voila! Not only was the champagne palatable, it was downright tasty! It made me wonder if anyone has ever tried making a “sangria” of sorts with a bottle of champagne that may have otherwise missed the mark. If nothing else, it’s certainly fun to experiment
Happy drinking!